If you’re heading to Volos or planning to catch a ferry to the Sporades Islands, don’t skip a quick detour to Portaria — one of the most charming villages on Mount Pelion.
Just 12 km (7 miles) from Volos town, this traditional mountain village is super easy to reach and makes the perfect first stop on your Pelion adventure.
Perched at 650 meters on the lush western slopes of the mountain, Portaria is a leafy, flower-filled escape with breathtaking views over the Pagasetic Gulf, especially at sunset.
Living in Athens, I’ve visited Portaria more than once — it never gets old. My last trip was in late October, and the fall vibes were perfect.
To give you a real feel for Portaria in Pelion, I’ve included my video below:
So, what can you actually do in Portaria? Here are some of the best things to check out.
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The Best Things to Do in Portaria Pelion
Exploring the Charming Squares of Portaria
One of the most relaxing and rewarding ways to explore Portaria is to wander through its three main squares — each with its own vibe, history, and charm.
Start with Melina Merkouri Square, the heart of the village. It’s wide, full of life, and shaded by massive plane trees that change with the seasons — from golden leaves in fall to bright hydrangeas in spring and even snow in winter.
The square is lined with cozy cafés and traditional taverns, and it’s the perfect place to sit and watch the village go by.
Don’t miss Gastronomy Hotel Kritsa, one of the most beloved spots in the square, known for classic Pelion dishes like spetzofai and grilled sausages. Bonus: they also run a lovely guesthouse if you’re staying the night.
Next, stroll over to Adamenas Square, where adventure calls. This is where the Centaur’s Trail begins — a scenic path that takes you through forested terrain and leads to the spring of Mana.
Finally, wind down at Taxiarches Square, a quieter spot with a quaint stone chapel and a peaceful atmosphere.
Walk by the Small Quaint Portaria Shops
From Portaria’s main square, walk by the small shops selling goods and herbs from Pelion Mountain.
It can be tough to choose from the numerous colorful jars with fruit and nut jams, folklore art, and amazing local honey!
The Women’s Agrotourism Cooperative showroom is located on the main road, opposite Melina Merkouri Square, since 1997.
It is the best place to buy freshly handmade products such as sweets, jams, honey, liqueurs, herbs, noodles, pickles, or tomato paste.
I purchased two jars of syrup sweets, one made of bergamot and the other of quince.
Myrro Herbs is hands down the best spot to pick up herbs, spices, natural cosmetics, and flavored teas and they’ve got an amazing variety to choose from!
Explore Portaria’s Cobblestone Alleys
If you follow any of the dozens of paved cobbled streets that start from any point in Portaria, you will discover many beautiful mansions, such as Pilion Terra Hotel, which has an amazing view of the sea and Volos.
The village is split into three sections by two main roads, which can get quite busy with traffic (from and to Volos) and don’t have sidewalks.
The houses in Portaria are usually large mansions, of the traditional local style with roofs made of stone slabs.
They are surrounded by gardens with fruit trees and are interconnected with backyard tiny cobblestone paths, and with water streams running everywhere in the village.
I walked the eastern part of the village and got to the lovely churches of Agios Georgios and Agioi Anargyroi, which, unfortunately, were both closed.
From here, the views to Volos and the Pagasetic Gulf are breathtaking!
Discover Ancient Panagia Portarea Church
Panagia Portarea is a lovely, tiny wooden church built in 1581. It used to be the Katholikon (the main church) of a monastery that doesn’t exist anymore.
Inside the small chapel, you can admire the beautiful iconostasis and old frescoes.
Outside of Panagia Portarea, you can light a candle, make a wish, and savor this peaceful atmosphere.
Right next to Panagia Portarea stands the metropolitan church of Agios Nikolaos, a three-aisle Basilica built in 1856 with a lovely bell tower.
The interior decoration of the church contains a beautifully carved wooden iconostasis that is 200 years old.
In its courtyard, with dozens of hydrangeas, there is a monument dedicated to the dead of the First World War, the Albanian front, and those executed in the Second World War.
Visit the Portaria Folklore Museum
The Historical and Folklore Museum of Portaria is housed in the two-story mansion Zoulia, one of the unique Egyptian houses, built in 1864.
These beautiful old houses were the summer residences of Greeks from Egypt, known as Egyptiotes. Some of the most typical examples are the Kantartzi and Tsopotou houses, as well as the old City Hall of Portaria.
Some of the exhibits include old postcards, cooking utensils, handmade furniture, and the paintings of Chrysoula Zioga, who bought the house from the Zoulia family with her own money and donated it to the community.
Hours of operation: Sunday 11.00 – 14.30. Daily: Organised visits on request (tel +30 2428350100). Summer opening hours: Wednesday to Saturday 9.00 – 14.00, Sunday 11.00 – 14.30.
If you like folklore embroidery, the Embroidery School’s showroom is located right next to the Women’s Cooperative and has no specific opening hours.
If you love traditional stays, don’t miss my guide to the best traditional guesthouses in Portaria.
Best Outdoor Activities in Portaria
Hike Centaurus Trail –
The Centaurus Trail is the most famous hiking path in Pelion — although the mountain is crisscrossed with hundreds of trails for all levels of hikers.
Pelion’s lush, green landscapes are closely tied to the legend of the Centaurs — those half-human, half-horse creatures from Greek mythology.
The most famous of them, Chiron, was said to be the wise teacher of both Hercules and Jason.
But the myth may have roots in reality. It’s believed that ancient healers, who traveled on horseback from village to village, gathering Pelion’s medicinal herbs and practicing early energy healing, inspired the legend.
Constantly on the move and always on horseback, they were eventually imagined as part horse, part human — and the Centaur was born.
The trail itself is short and easy — just 1.9 km (about 1.2 miles) — and it gently follows one of the many streams that flow through the area between Portaria and Makrinitsa.
To get to the starting point, walk about 5 minutes north from the main intersection toward Makrinitsa. Follow the signs, cross little wooden bridges, and enjoy the shady forest paths with trickling water pools along the way.
About 30–40 minutes later, you’ll find yourself at the end — refreshed, relaxed, and probably wanting to do it all over again.
The trail was hit hard by the 2023 flood, but the locals are doing their best to bring it back to how it was.
You may also enjoy: 30 Best Places to Go to Greece
Ski in Agriolefkes, Chania
The Ski Centre in Agriolefkes is located near Chania village in Pelion and 12.6 km from Portaria. It has 5 lifts and 5 slopes, one is Lang-Lauf, at 1471 m in height.
The ski center in Agriolefkes is one of the 19 organized ski resorts in Greece.
Even if you’re not interested in skiing, it’s worth visiting the ski resort as you’ll enjoy the scenery, the chalet with snacks and hot drinks, and the distant sea views.
Go to Makrinitsa, the ‘Pelion’s Balcony’
Makrinitsa is a strikingly beautiful village at 630 m, famous for its stunning views of the Pelion Mountain and the Pagasetic Gulf.
It is often called the ‘balcony of Pelion’ because it has traditionally built and richly decorated with stone mansions, and it offers an abundance of tranquility, natural beauty, and peace to visitors.
Read a full post about the best things to do in Makrinitsa.
Swim on Nearby Beaches
You can drive along the western side of Pelion, where you’ll find one charming village and beach after another.
Or head to the eastern side, home to some of the most popular spots like Mylopotamos, Agios Ioannis, Chorefto, Agioi Saranta, Papa Nero, and many other stunning sandy beaches.
Go to Damouchari tiny bay, one of Mamma Mia’s film locations, and nearby Mouresi and have a meal at one of the beautiful traditional taverns right above the water.
FAQs for Portaria
Where to stay in Portaria
I had an amazing stay at Archontiko Portaria. Two of the walls in my room were actually windows, giving me a full view of the main square and the huge plane trees. I also enjoyed the rich breakfast, which was included in the room rate. Fabulous stay!
Archontiko Naoumidi is a 19th-century, fully renovated, beautiful stone mansion offering modern comforts like a hydromassage shower, a spa bath, and a large swimming pool.
You can also check out my post on the top traditional hotels in Portaria to help you choose where to stay.
How to get to Portaria
From Volos:
Portaria is approximately 336 km (209 miles) from Athens (3 hours and 45′) and about 219 km (136 mi) from Thessaloniki (2 hours and 30′).
There’s a direct bus from Volos to Portaria (30′ ride), connecting the town with many of the villages on Pelion (such as Makrinitsa and Chania, where the ski resort is).
On weekdays, you’ll find around seven departures a day, while weekends are a bit quieter with four buses running the route.
Buses leave from the KTEL station (Sekeri and Zachou Streets near Volos’ Old Town) and you can check the current schedule online here.
How to Get to Volos from Athens or Thessaloniki
Getting to Volos is easy—there are options by train, bus, or plane. You can take a train to Larissa city, then switch to a regional train to Volos. Check here the train schedules for Greece.
There are also regular buses from major cities in mainland Greece. From Athens, you can take the Liosion street buses to Volos. Check out the timetable here.
As for flights, Volos has limited service, mostly during the summer season.
However, the best and most flexible solution is to rent a car.
Why should I rent a car for Pelion?
If you’re planning to explore more of the Pelion region (or just want to avoid waiting around for buses), renting a car is a great option.
Driving up from Athens? The route gives you the chance to stop at some pretty epic spots like Delphi or even the Thermopylae hot springs. Once you’re near Volos, you can also use your car to check out other picturesque villages in Pelion at your own pace.
To get to Portaria by car, you’ll follow the same route the public bus takes through central Volos, and uphill to wonderful sea views.
When you reach a fork in the road, you’ll know you’ve made it to Portaria. Take the right turn (the left goes to Makrinitsa), and about 100 meters later, you’ll find a big free parking lot.
That’s it, you made it to Portaria!
Where to Dine in Portaria
The local specialty is spetzofai (sausage in spicy tomato sauce with peppers), which you will find in every tavern and restaurant in Pelion.
For your meals or for the sweet breaks, I have a few excellent suggestions for you below:
- Located on an uphill cobbled street, Gevsokratoras is famous for its fireplace and handmade bread, serving simple but modern dishes with a broader Mediterranean identity.
- Pelion Geuseis welcomes you with a shot of tsipouro and raw materials of their production – try the eggplant in clay.
- Agora 1955, a stylish all-day café-bistrot that also functions as a deli and wine bar. Here I had a delicious hot chocolate by the fireplace. I was told that its lemon pie is to die for!
- Aeriko, between Portaria and Makrinitsa, with the best view and amazing cheesecakes and applepie. Here I stayed for quite some time as I had a lot of work to do on my laptop.
When is the best time to go to Portaria
Pelion Mountain and its villages are a four-season destination and any time you decide to visit, you will have a wonderful time with a variety of activities.
If you visit in early October, Karaiskos Farm organizes the Gastronomy Festival, with local traditional products from Pelion, recipes, tasting, and wine-tasting moments making up the backdrop of the gastronomic feast.
Portaria gets very busy during Christmas and New Year’s Eve, so you’d better book your room in advance if you wish to visit at the same time.
More Pelion Posts
- Makrinitsa, Pelion’s Balcony
- Pelion Ultimate Travel Guide
- Zagora, the apple village
- Tsagarada, the famous
- Agios Ioannis, the seaside resort
Did you visit the Portaria in Pelion? Let me know what you think about visiting Portaria in the comments. I’d love to hear whether I managed to get it onto your bucket list! Till next time, Evgenia
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What a great place! As I am reading your articles, there are so many places U want to go. Thank you so much for your all information! 🙂
Dear Joo,
Thank you so much for your kind words!
Pelion is indeed an amazing area, it has so much to offer to visitors. 🙂
Best,
Evgenia