I love the Cyclades – who doesn’t really? But in the last few years, some of the islands, such as Santorini, Mykonos, and Paros, have gotten jam-packed with tourists during summer.
If I want to go to a Cycladic island in summer, I go to the enchanting, sophisticated, and authentic atmosphere of Folegandros island!
The island remains largely untouched by mass tourism, making it an idyllic destination for honeymooners and couples seeking a romantic getaway.
Despite its under-the-radar status, don’t expect bargain prices here; Folegandros’ permanent residents are committed to maintaining the highest standards of service and quality.
I visit the island as often as I can and it always surprises me how it remains so unchanged and authentic!
If you are wondering what to do in Folegandros, I have put together this travel guide, which covers the best things to see on the island.
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What to Do in Folegandros
Folegandros Quick Links
Great Hotel in Folegandros: Meltemi
Nothing beats renting a car — total freedom to explore Greece.
Use sites like FerryHopper or FerryScanner to compare prices and book online.
1. Explore Karavostasis Port
The small but picturesque Karavostasis port (Folegandros’ main port) is your central point for everywhere you want to go on the island. The seafront village is lined with hotels, rentals, buses, supermarkets, taverns, and bakeries.
Picture whitewashed buildings with pops of blue – Instagram-worthy!
From here, you can hop on boat tours, hit up some beaches, or wander around to soak in the island’s history and beauty.
The small cove is dotted with yachts during the summer and the small pebbled beach is great for children or a quick dive.
Whether you’re arriving by ferry or just taking a stroll along the waterfront, Karavostasis is your go-to spot for diving into the fun of Folegandros.
2. Dive into Folegandros Island Beaches | What to Do in Folegandros
Nearby Karavostasi, there are some splendid beaches with green-blue clear waters, all within walking distance:
Vardia, probably the longest beach on Folegandros, is right behind the Karavostasi port.
If there are north winds, it can be very windy, so you should choose a different beach, probably in the southern part of the island. Vardia Beach is not organized and has no water or food available.
Chochlidia beach, has large white pebbles with clear waters, with trees for shade easily reached by car or bus.
From Karavostasis to Livadi, there are also two small sandy beaches, worth visiting and swimming: Vitsentzou and Latinaki.
Katergo is a gorgeous green-blue water beach and one of the most popular beaches on the island.
It is located on the south of the island and can be accessed either by car for the first 2.8 km from Karavostasi to Livadi and then on foot to the beach (about 30′ walking) or by boat from Karavostasi.
Katergo, like most of the Folegandros beaches, has sand and small pebbles; it is not organized and has no shade, water, or food.
Note of Caution: Katergo Beach has strong currents that may pull you towards the open sea.
Nostalgia Tip: When I was young, all beaches in Greece were more or less like that, no beach bars, no music, and no fancy restaurants.
If we were lucky, there would be one tavern making the most basic of dishes, like a salad or fries, or some fish.
It was such a happy time and Greece was so beautiful and simple. Folegandros is special because it still has something of this old “aura” of Greece.
3. Stroll Gorgeous Chora Folegandros
Chora Folegandros is one of the prettiest choras of all Cycladic islands! It is Folegandros’ biggest settlement, a medieval small town hanging over 660ft up on the sheer edge of a cliff. It is reminiscent of Santorini, with a breathtaking vista of the blue Aegean Sea.
As soon as you set foot in the village, you will realize that Folegandros Chora is a magical place, that takes you back to the time when life was more innocent and simple.
It is a car-free village and has a unique center with three squares in a row. Its small whitewashed alleys are made for walking, passing by traditional small white houses.
Beautiful Chora has well-preserved stone-paved streets with squares that lay one after the other, creating the most amazing labyrinth you have ever been to.
Strolling the squares, you get to the Castro, a 13th-century construction built by the Venetian Markos Sanoudos that was meant to protect medieval Folegandrians from the constant pirates’ raids.
The entrance to Castro, Lotzia, is a small gate where, on its top, used to be a big bell warning the inhabitants of Folegandros of a possible pirate raid. Castro is a tiny medieval village characterized by its small white houses with walls.
One of the best places to have your dinner in Folegandros Chora is the Pounta square which forms a semicircle with a balcony view of the cliff with a breathtaking sea view.
Pick your table and enjoy excellently prepared food, sipping your wine and looking at the view. If you visit Folegandros in the peak season (July-August), there might be “competition” over the best tables, so you’d better book one in advance.
A lovely property to stay in Chora Folegandros is Meltemi.
4. Walk to Panagia Church with the Best Sunset!
On top of the Chora, some 350 steps up, sits the most famous and most photographed church of Folegandros, dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin Mary.
The church is built high on a rock, over an ancient Greek temple, and to get there from Chora, you will need to get to Pounta Square and climb up the steps.
The Panagia church offers a 360-degree panoramic view of the whole island.
But this is not just that. The spot offers a stunning sunset, which many visitors think is even better than the sunset of Santorini!
5. Discover Chrisospilia – The Golden Cave
Right below the cliff of Panagia church and at sea level, you can find one of the largest caves in Greece with stalagmites and stalactites.
The cave also has great archaeological importance for its countless ancient names engraved on its walls dating from the 4th BCΕ.
Access is possible by boat from Karavostasi port and you can swim in one of the most remote places of Folegandros in crystal clear waters and explore an impressive site.
6. Go to Ano Meria Village
5 km west of Chora toward the west, you find the second big settlement of Folegandros, rural Ano Meria. Ano Meria’s farmhouses are its most characteristic, known as “Thimonia”.
To fully understand Thimonia, you should visit the very interesting Ecological and Folklore Museum in Ano Meria. Essentially, the Museum is a time-traveling exhibition of the Folegandros lifestyle in an authentic rural house (Thimonia) of the 19th century.
Another impressive local site is the Asropounta Lighthouse, 15′ from Ano Meria. It was built in 1912, is 11 meters high, and offers amazing sea views. Very close to Ano Meria are also many beautiful, unorganized, and small beaches:
Lygaria Beach, is a tiny sandy and pebbly beach with incredibly blue-green waters, no trees, no other shade, and no water or food available, 4.5 km from Ano Meria towards the north.
In the northwest of Ano Meria, you can find Ampeli Beach. It is a rather small beach, with rocks and rich underwater scenery, ideal for divers.
Close by is the beautiful beach of Agios Georgios. There are a couple of summer houses, a few trees that can be used for their shade, and the “Syrmata”, the special nooks in the rocks where the fishermen store their boats.
7. Enjoy Agali – Top Beach on Folegandros Island
Agali village and beach are on the west side of Folegandros, just a quick 10-minute drive (4 km) from Chora.
It’s nicely sheltered from those pesky northern winds (meltemia) and has some lovely fine white sand.
Plus, it’s one of the few spots on Folegandros that you can easily roll up to by car. And since Agali’s got a bunch of hotels and taverns, it’s the go-to beach on the island, especially for families with little ones.
A great budget hotel just a few steps away from the beach is Perigiali Rooms & Apartments Folegandros.
Agios (Saint) Nikolaos sandy and pebbles beach, is one of the most picturesque and popular beaches in Folegandros.
It has quite a few trees to protect you from the fierce summer Greek sun, 2 taverns to have your lunch, and the church of Agios Nikolaos. You can get there by taking a small boat from Agali or you can walk for about 20′.
Livadaki Beach has stunning green turquoise waters, white pebbles, and flat limestone around the beach. The impressive rocks formed by salt and sulfur are great for scuba exploration.
Easily reachable by boat from Agkali in only 10 minutes; alternatively, take the footpath from the end of Ano Meria (there is a sign) and get there after a 45-minute walk.
8. Visit Petousi and Livadi Settlements
Livadi is 10 minutes away from Karavostasi and is a fertile area so you will see several farmhouses and cultivated land. At the beach of Livadi, you will find the only camping site on Folegandros.
The beach is quite large with sand and fine pebbles and is popular with young people and families.
The other settlement of Folegandros is Petousi, which can be reached from Chora in 5 minutes by car and it also has a few farmhouses (and pretty much nothing else).
9. Indulge in Folegandros’ Best Local Dishes
Greek cuisine is famous for its tastefulness, being one of the top healthy diets in the world, usually made with fresh ingredients.
There are well-known dishes that are served all over the country such as dolmadakia and tzatziki and Greek salad. Besides, the all-time-classic Greek dishes here are some of the only found on Folegandros dishes that you should try when you are on the island:
- Matsata: local pasta, something between lasagne and noodles. Freshly made pasta accompanied with fresh tomato sauce, grated cheese, or chicken.
- Souroto: local soft white cheese, used widely in Greek salads instead of feta
- Kalasouna: Kalasouna is the local savory pie, which is essentially an onion cheese pie – to die for!
- Biskotenia: Sweet choice of biscuits with chocolate and cream
- Watermelon pie: Sweet choice with fresh watermelon, honey, and sesame, totally yummy! You can have it by itself or with a ton of ice cream on top (my usual choice!)
10. Hike Folegandros Island
Folegandros is a mountainous, rocky island with deep valleys, steep uphills, and cliffs. Most of the island is a protected Natura 2000 habitat with shrubby vegetation and caves where the Mediterranean monk seals find refuge.
The highest mountain on the island is Agios Eleftherios mt with a peak at 455 m, on the south, and an ideal spot to watch the impressive sunset and the nearby islands of Milos and Sikinos. The second-highest mountain is Merovigli, just 312 m high, in the north of Folegandros.
Folegandros is a small island, shaped by centuries of agriculture. It has a modest hiking network of 30 km of well-preserved trails.
Read here when is best to go to Greece. My favorite months to hike in Greece are October (warm but not too much) and April (everything has blossomed).
There are 13 trails, most of them short ones (1.5-2 h) and one longer and more demanding hike the “Ano Meria – Livadaki – Agali – Chora” trail. On this trail, you should not miss visiting the wonderful Aspropountas Lighthouse and if it is summer, swimming in the secluded and astonishing wild-beauty beach of Livadaki.
11. Discover the Best Taverns and Bars on Folegandros Island
This is a short list (but not conclusive) of some of the taverns where I have enjoyed excellent food on the island and that I recommend:
- Irini’s tavern in Ano Meria is unique as it is housed in an old Cycladic building that also functions as a small grocery store. It serves traditional food such as local pasta, usually served with pork and beef and its homemade onion pie and meatballs are delicious – call to book a table at +30 2286 041436.
- Papalagi Seafood is a wonderful seaside tavern with seafood and vegetarian cuisine in Agios Nikolaos. It is open from lunch to dinner and has a great view from the terrace to admire while you eat.
- In Folegandros Chora, you will love ‘The Homemade (To Spitiko) tavern offering delicious specialties including matsata cooked with a rooster in tomato sauce – all to book a table at +30 2286 041235.
FAQ for Folegandros
Which are the Best Folegandros Hotels
Here are a few fantastic spots I’ve picked out for you:
Perigiali Rooms & Apartments Folegandros(budget): Just a few steps from Agali Beach — super convenient if you’re all about swimming and chilling.
Provalma is a gorgeous 4-star property with beautiful sea views and a swimming pool.
Horizon Hotel is a lovely 3-star apartment complex with views of Chora,
If you’re heading there in peak season, don’t wait too long — rooms fill up quickly!
How to Get to Folegandros Island
Folegandros is a small island of the South Aegean Archipelagos, belonging to the Cyclades island group, with just about 650 registered residents.
It lies between Milos and Sikinos islands and Santorini is only 22 miles to the northeast.
You can get to Folegandros island by:
Folegandros Airport: There is no airport in Folegandros, but you can fly to Santorini and take the 1.5-hour ferry from there to Folegandros.
By Ferry: You can choose between the super-fast ferries (4 hours, can be bumpy if there is wind and are more expensive), which go directly to Folegandros, and the slow ferry boats (8-10 hours, cheaper, you can buy a cabin) that stop at other Cycladic islands before they reach the island.
Use sites like FerryHopper or FerryScanner to compare prices and book online.
When is the best time to visit Folegandros?
Folegandros never gets as busy as some other very popular islands (eg, Mykonos, Santorini). Having said that, August might also be a busy month even for Folegandros.
Especially in Folegandros, there are extra local customs: they celebrate Greek Orthodox Easter with tasty delicacies such as Lazarakia (bread with raisins), small honeypies, or Easter pies.
During Sunday celebrations in Folegandros, they also process the Icon from Panagia church above Chora to all the Chora houses, beaches, and ships for the blessing of the Icon.
For the adventurous, Folegandros is open and working all year round, even in the winter.
How to Get Around Folegandros
There are public buses at the Folegandros port, Karavostasis, to transport you to any of the island’s villages. You can also ask your hotel to pick you up, they might include this service for free, check it out with them.
Taxis/Rentals: There is just one taxi on the island TAXI, tel:+30 6944693957 & +30 22860 41048!
I suggest you rent a car for at least a day to explore further Folegandros.
Water Taxis:
There are more than 10 impressive beaches that you can try and visit but not all of them are reachable by bus or on foot. A great way to get around is the water taxis, the small boats that take you to all the remote beaches. Contact them at (+30 for Greek phones):
Island Spirit – 693 2297896, 693 2511018 – Email: info@islandspirit.gr
Sea-U – 22860 41624, 693 6092060, 697 6684159 – Εmail: info@sea-u.com
Stella Express (Island Tour): 22860 41104 – Εmail: info@diaploustravel.gr
Stella Express ΙΙΙ (to Katergo Beach): 694 5558820
Is Folegandros Suitable for Families?
While not exclusively geared towards families, the island offers calm beaches, child-friendly tavernas, and a slower pace compared to other islands, making it a good option for families seeking a relaxed vacation.
What’s the Nightlife like in Folegandros?
Chora comes alive in the evenings with lively bars, traditional music taverns, and open-air cafes offering a vibrant yet laid-back atmosphere.
Is There a Hospital or a Bank?
There is no hospital on the island but there is a small clinic and a pharmacy. For any health emergency, call +30 22860 41222 or +30 22860 41540 (Pharmacy). There is no bank but 2 ATMs.
Final Thoughts
With its whitewashed houses, cozy tavernas, and breathtaking sunset views, Folegandros blends authentic Greek charm with natural beauty, making it an ideal destination for a quiet, romantic getaway.
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Hiking is really easy to reach because you can start the trails in Chora or take the bus to Ano Meria. A lot of trails leave the road along the length of the village. It is a great island to visit and the Easter celebration fireworks are very wild!
Thanks, Fred for the comment! It is a great island to visit, I totally agree with you!
I am planning on traveling to Folegandros in January with a 2-year-old. Do you think it’s doable? Worth it? I’m hoping to do lots of hiking and wandering around the villages.
Hello Kenni. Hiking in winter on any of the islands with a 2-year-old is definitely not a good idea. The winds can be almost like a gale and as Folegandros has a very rough terrain you risk falling off a cliff. If the weather is very wintry, there might no ferries to go or leave the island. Hiking is definitely worth it but I wouldn’t go with such a young child to Folegandros in winter. Better go to April, May or October.